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Tasting Notes

Emma says: “It was especially difficult to select the wine we’d taste this week. If we stayed true to our usual mode of choice we would have gone for something that represented a true and classic taste of that grape.

The thing is that Chardonnay is a real chameleon. Even in its birthplace of Burgundy, it has an array of flavour profiles because it is the grape that most reflects where it is grown and how it is made. So if we start at the Northern tip of Burgundy in Chablis, the Chardonnay there is most often unoaked very brisk and zippy with striking minerality and fruit that is green apple or citrus in profile. But then you venture south from there and reach the Cote D’Or the aptly named section where some of the priciest wines come from; think Meursault or St Aubin. Here whites are oaked and therefore have a richness and buttery fruit flavour, plus differing mineral and complex expressions depending on the exact patch of land and winemaker who made them. It doesn’t stop there, as you get on the motorway and drive down to the Maconnais part of Burgundy, the climate gets warmer, and the wines tend to be unoaked, giving them rich but pure fruit flavours; think peaches, melon and honey.

I haven’t even mentioned the wider world of Chardonnay; venture into other classic regions like Adelaide Hills (Australia), Napa (California) or Mendoza (Argentina) and the array of styles will get even broader.

I hope I have made one point here. If you think you dislike Chardonnay it is probably because you haven’t found the one you like yet!

But onto the wine we tasted. I went big this week and selected my ultimate desert island wine, a Puligny Montrachet, from that Cote d’Or region. It was pricey but I really wanted to show Andy why I love this grape quite so much. We tasted one from David Moret, a new producer I have discovered who is well worth searching out. The experience was just what I hoped. Puligny has this amazing honeysuckle aroma which is bright and elegant. We had a 2014 which is a fantastic cool vintage and still very young in expression. To taste, it was so pure in flavour, a seamless line of creamy rich lemon curd, with electric minerality coming across as crunchy sea salt, interplaying well with the oak that gave it an almond nut richness, with a caramel twist. I could go on but I won’t bore you. I hope I have expressed why I find this wine so exciting. And if you want to try a slightly cheaper version I have tasted this producer’s Rully of the same vintage last week and it was great.

One confession is that we didn’t get the food match right. 52grapes is really challenging our social scheduling. We had to taste it last night and I got home late after meeting a friend so the only food we could summon was a takeaway pizza. Needless to say this isn’t going to be something I would recommend, and probably something I’d never repeat…”

Andy says: “I’m going to assume you all gave up reading this page by Emma’s 47th paragraph, and whatever I write here will remain unseen by human eyes.

I have two main takeaways from this week’s wine. 1 – I always thought I preferred unoaked Chardonnay, and 2 – I always thought I didn’t like Chardonnay. The first thing that hit me was the oak. To me it was ‘quite oaky’, but Emma mumbled something about the grape and the region and how it takes on so much flavour, or something. I don’t know, I was trying to watch Taskmaster at the same time and that took precedence.

There was also a big hit of acid. I didn’t get the same cheek-watering sensation as last week, this was more along the lines of a crisp, eye piercing, grimace. And then the cheek watering. All in all a tip top tipple, highly highly recommended.”

Buying Guide

We will be heading straight to the the classic region of Burgundy. Our sub region of choice will be Puligny Montrachet. So head to the French white section and look for any of these, your choice may be dependent on how much you want to spend: Bourgogne Blanc, Macon Villages, Chablis, Pouily Fuisse, Rully, Chassagne Montrachet, Meursault or Puligny Montrachet.

Tasting Notes

We tasted: Alsace Gewurztraminer £10 Marks and Spencer

Emma says: “The experience of tasting Gewürztraminer this week was a nice moment for me. It made me realise the value of the 52 Grapes experience for a so called “expert” like myself. I fell out of love with Gewurz a while ago, I’m not a fan of overtly floral styles of wine or off dry wines; so I had put this one to the back of my grape closet.

But on being forced to taste it again I was surprised to find myself enjoying it. Perhaps it was the rare, balmy, bank holiday weekend that we had in London this week. The pretty floral profile of this Alsace Gewürztraminer seemed to perfectly suit my mood. I also really liked this particular style I tried, it had a fresh rose aroma and crisp lychee fruit flavour that lingered nicely with a ginger root twist that brightened it up. It wasn’t fat and oily or too confected as many styles I’ve tried in the past. Not amazingly complex but I I found further dimension in its fruit flavours with a creamy peach interior and candy floss sweet twists from its off dry style.

I then tried a further glass with my lazy dinner of a feta cheese, avocado and grain salad. Andy was out obviously, he wouldn’t put up with that sort of dinner. But I found that it worked fantastically with salty cheese and the richness of avocado. Its sweetness and vivid fruit offered a fantastic contrast. And for that reason it would be a great one to try with Thai or other spicy dishes too.

A final note is that another type of Gewürztraminer I have recently tried and enjoyed for its similar restrained character was one from Northern Italy in Trento where it can be called Traminer. Therefore if you are a fan of this style look out for that too. Plus we will be tasting other floral styles of grapes later in our journey; look out for Torrontes and Muscat if you are a fan of this grape.”

Andy says: “I’ve now had time to taste this wine. Who’d have though that drinking a different wine each week would be this hard to keep up with?

Well, I think the only word I can use here is ‘floral’. If you’re in the UK and of a certain age, you might remember sweets (aka candy for our American friends) called Cherry Lips, that taste eff-all like cherry, but do taste like soap, and this wine reminds me very strongly of them. And that ladies and gents, is pretty much all I have to say about this wine. Those sweets were ok in small doses, and I guess this wine is too. This is not on my ‘must buy again’ list, more likely the next time I try this will be in a year or two when I read back on the notes and wonder if it really did taste like cherry lips. Note for future me: Yes it did.

I also spent most of this review resisting wondering if I could say ‘…one of the wurzt wines I’ve had’. ”

Buying Guide

Gewurztraminer is a classic grape variety of the region Alsace in France. Happily Alsace normally puts this grape variety boldly on the front label so it should be easy to identify. So we will be trying a version from there. Good alternatives regions if you find this hard to find would be Germany, New Zealand or Chile.

Tasting Notes

Emma Says: Confession time: Andy and I decided this week should be a New Zealand Sauvignon, since it is pretty much the modern classic example of this grape. But I’m actually not really a fan of this style of Sauvignon.

To me the wines often have a clumsy expression, all upfront, with pungent aromas and tropical flavours; let’s call it a “shouty” style of wine. My preferred version of Sauvignon would come from the cooler climate areas of France in the Loire; with the famous villages Sancerre and Pouilly Fume.

To get around this problem I cheated a little. Back in 2010 I was lucky enough to have three days learning basic winemaking in Marlborough, New Zealand. It was at that time that I learnt the style of Kiwi Sauv I like.  They come from particular cooler climate spots in the region Marlborough; my favourite being the Awatere Valley. This area has very brisk valley breezes that keep the grapes nice and chilled even in the warmer months. And for me the style have that bit of elegance as a result.

So I searched the supermarket shelves and found Astrolabe Awatere Valley Sauvignon £19.99. It is actually rare to find a wine 100% from that valley. Often wineries mix a little Awatere with wine from the warmer Wairau Valley to create balance between ripe fruit and the leaner style. Onto the taste of this wine. It didn’t disappoint, the aroma had a beautiful gentle elderflower herbal note, with a hint of more tropical passion fruit adding richness. Plus underlying there was a mineral flinty hit to the nose that gives it that bit of elegance.  To the palate it is generous but not oily and fat which can be the case with Kiwi Sauvignon.  It had a dense but gentle flavour with mountain herbs, sweet lemon balm and a pithy bite that refreshed the finish. The flavours really lasted too.

I happen to know Sancerre and the Loire in general had a terrible vintage last year so prices are about to go through the roof. So if you love these styles I would say this type of premium Kiwi Sauv is a perfect alternative.

And to end a final few interesting geek facts. The reason the Kiwi Sauv styles are so distinctly bold and lively in style is a mix of climate and winemaking. The climate has high UV rays and sunlight hours, this makes the skins thick and full of flavour and aroma. Then the Kiwis tend to leave the grape to have a bit of “cold maceration” before they crush and ferment that increases the aroma concentration. Finally that bell pepper bright tropical aroma is down to a compound called “thiols” that are high in Sauvignon grapes. In NZ they really favour this and try to enhance their character by using yeasts that are specially designed to bring that out in the fermentation. And “eh viola” you have the Kiwi Sauv style.

Andy says: I’ve been looking forward to Sauvignon week as it’s one of the few wines I can spot, because it usually smells like cat piss. Just Google “Sauvignon Blanc Cat” if you don’t believe me. If you’re a bit posher than me, then you’d say it smells of box hedge or boxwood, and if you’ve ever been near a blackcurrant tree, then that would apply too.

Buying Guide

Friday is Sauvignon Blanc day so we’re going with the theme and will be trying a classic New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. We expect you’ve had your fair share of “Savvy Bs”, and encourage you to trade up a little and try a premium version. We can then all discuss if it is worth paying that little bit more for a Kiwi Sauvignon. Look out for one from the classic Marlborough region, and potentially an Awatere Valley sub region where the coolest climate styles come from.

Tasting Notes

We tasted: Vigneti di Foscarino Soave Classico 2014 – £19.99

Emma says: “In case we haven’t made this clear yet, Garganega is Soave and vice-versa. This is another of those wines where a country decides to call the wine by its region rather than the grape. The grape Garganega is held in quite high esteem by local winemakers, who would often prefer to be working with this as their grape of choice, but have found Pinot Grigio is the king of the export market.

The broad region of Veneto has slowly replanted vineyards to Pinot Grigio. Winemakers love it so much they often sneak a little bit into the blend of Pinot Grigio without declaring it on the label, this adds a little oomph to the flavour; which is entirely legal. So get into Garganega, the locals know it’s good and so should we.

We are tasting a Soave Classico which comes from the best hillside sites for this grape. It was a last minute purchase for me because Andy and I have 24 hours together in London before travelling separately for a week. Anyway, I was gazing at the shelves of a good local supermarket and could either have gone for reasonable sub £10 or a famed fine wine producer Foscarino. 52 Grapes is the perfect excuse to go pricey. I was actually hoping to find my favourite producer Pieropan because by a sad coincidence the head of their family Nino who was a pioneer of high quality Soave died last week.  I didn’t find Pieropan but Foscarino and this still seemed a fitting tribute since Pieropan’s ethos has been all about proving the quality Soave can achieve. This producer Foscarino certainly champions that. It can be a wine with incredible complexity when produced with old vines and a little age – move over Burgundy.

So to this wine. It did display what I hoped. Lets think of the typical Northern Italian white which I hated when blind tasting for my Master of Wine exams; like Veneto Pinot Grigio. They are bone dry, only gently aromatic and subtle to taste on the palate – so very difficult to detect between each other. But then if you get a good grape like Garganega and give it a little age it entirely changes. Here I get a lovely honeysuckle syrup aroma, overlaying a sorrel herby note, then gentle lime blossom, to taste there is a mild tarragon flavour giving it that herby appeal and light lemon lozenge sweetness. There is a richness and texture not typical of the simple everyday Soave that adds a dimension. This old vine concentration and possibly a producer also using lees contact to add texture. All in all it shows why I get excited by mature Italian whites as much as French. But a word of warning, this is only true of top Soave, Fruili or Collio producers where whites are typically aged to create these styles.

And if you tasted a slightly less pricey Soave Classico I really hoped you found what I like to say is true of those styles. It is like taking a Pinot Grigio and making it more interesting. Just a touch more limey, zesty and herbal but still crisp and dry and refreshing. Lets start a renaissance of Garganega lovers. I know the grape doesn’t sound pretty but it tastes pretty good.”

Andy says: “It’s going to be quite a struggle to review this, as I tasted it 5 days ago and didn’t make any notes. I’ve since flown 5000 miles, been attacked by squadrons of mosquitos and have a swollen arm from an allergic reaction.

The one thing I clearly remember is the colour of the wine, which was a deep yellow, similar to what I would describe as ‘hangover p*ss’. Apparently it’s age that does it. To the wine that is. Moving swiftly on from that image, I also remember that I definitely liked this wine – bursting with flavour and at the right level of sweetness for me. Emma then informs me it’s actually ‘bone dry’, so I guess I’m tasting the richness and mistaking it for sweetness. Clearly, I’m not learning a thing.”

Buying Guide

Back to the old world and we’re rediscovering another forgotten but great white grape. More commonly known as Soave, the region in the Veneto, Italy. It has been overshadowed by Pinot Grigio but to wine lovers is the superior grape with more flavour. Try to find a Soave Classico which means the grapes will come from the better hillside slopes. We will be doing the same.

Tasting Notes

Emma says: “I guess there had to be a week. To date I’ve been able to wax lyrical about pretty much every wine we’ve tasted and often enjoyed the opportunity to revisit an old grape friend I’d forgotten.

I thought this grape would be the same, as it is one of those grapes that wine people say is due a revival. I’ve seen other French native grapes like Picpoul rise to the top of wine lists and wondered why Muscadet hasn’t been given the same nudge forward. After all, in its heyday it was almost as well known as Sauvignon Blanc, if you have parents who hung out in wine bars in the 1970s and 80s I’m sure they’ll confirm that. Maybe that is why it fell out of fashion, it became that drink “your parents like”.

I’ve also heard whispers that the demise of the Muscadet region was also due to lots of grape growers cashing in during its era of popularity and producing high yielding grapes with flavours close to water. That era is well over because nowadays Muscadet producers are more likely to be shutting up shop due to low consumer demand; especially after a long run terrible harvests which drove many of them out of business. So as the going says “only the strong survive” which should mean the remaining growers are going to be quality focused and passionate about continuing on their tradition.

Back to the wine. If you are a fan of wines with fruit that springs from the glass then be warned, this may not be for you. The aroma of Muscadet Sur lie is far from it; for me it is always the smell of a sea shore mixed with a herbal and flinty mineral tinge. And to taste if you are an avid seafood fan then you should be getting some of those familiar salty saline flavours with a light citrus bite; limey and slightly pithy. Oysters and Muscadet must be the perfect wine match for this reason. The “sur lie” bit is interesting. Lie or “lees” are the dead yeast cells that go through a process called “autolysis” when in long contact with wine. It creates the biscuity, nutty richness in Champagne and conveys a similar but more delicate flavour to Muscadet. It is also quite helpful to soften our the potential sharpness of a high acid, cool climate wine. Many white wines use “lees” for this reason, unoaked Chardonnay like a good Macon Villages has that roundness and texture for the same reason.

But I’m afraid my experience of Muscadet this time just didn’t float my boat. It made me think about how you reach out for a glass of something that suits your mood. And the night before I had bought a bottle of Macon because I wanted something with that smooth, soft peachy flavour which that gives me. I had my glass of Muscadet straight after that and it just seemed a little weak and lacking flavour as a result. Perhaps another night, a different mood and it would have been more interesting to me. After all I have tried some incredible aged Muscadet in the past that had made me remember it as more special wine.”

Andy says: “I sort of tasted this wine three times, and had three different opinions about it.

The first time was with dinner, and not with one of the recommended matches – a spicy five bean chilli. However, it seemed a perfect match to me. The wine was fruity, cool, crisp, cutting through the chilli with so much ease the glass didn’t last long at all.

The second glass, and therefore tasting, wasn’t far behind. But this time, as the chilli wore off and my palate neutralised, I liked it much less, finding it to be quite sour and limey.

The third tasting was a day or so later, and it was a similar experience. Initially I liked it when cool and out of the fridge, but I then forgot about it for about 20 mins. Tasting it slightly warmer and it was back to the sour limey version. So I guess the lesson here, for me at least, is that it how wine is served/consumed really does make a difference.”

Buying Guide

This week’s grape is more commonly known as Muscadet, which is a region in the Loire area of France. It has fallen out of fashion but is a lovely dry white. We are going to try a specific style called “Muscadet Sur Lie”. We’ll explain what that means later, but for now find the French white section and look for those words on the front label. It should be widely available.

Tasting Notes

Emma says: “Today was equal pleasure and pain when it comes to the 52grapes experience. Arriving home late from a work trip, we realised tonight was the only night we had to try a Fiano before our weekly newsletter deadline.

So I sit here bleary eyed, wishing I was in bed, but instead musing over a Fiano. Thankfully this wine has reminded me of what is so enjoyable about our project. Instead of buying one of the Fianos I have tasted before, I ventured into a small and beautiful Italian specialist wine shop, “Passione Vino” in Shoreditch, to buy a version I hadn’t tried before. And this Campanian Fiano is really unusual. It feels like a traditional rather than a modern version. Most of the modern styles I’ve tried are crisp, fresh and floral, quite straightforward and thirst quenching with mild white peach flavours. Think of Pinot Grigio with more fragrance and richer fruit flavour.

But this version is very different to that. For a start the aroma is softer, more honeyed with gentle floral notes (almost pot pourri in style). The palate is quite waxy with orange peel, sweet peach compote flavours and a white tea savoury note. It feels like a wine that would work well with food for its extra body, texture and richness in fruit. But we aren’t talking bold tropical fruit, it is altogether gentle and mild. It didn’t blow my mind but I found it interesting enough to keep going back to in order to consider its flavour palate. I think that is honestly why these small producer styles from a small specialist shop can be a fun experience. They often offer something slightly different from the mainstream styles.

And what do I mean by traditional rather than modern for Campania? Well the modern styles can be made in a very precise technical way, avoiding any oxygen contact to keep the fragrance very fresh. Traditional styles are less protective, meaning a little bit more oxygen interacts with the grape and softens out those aromas, bringing on the honeyed character that otherwise tends to come to these wines later with age.”

Andy says: “Emma was away for a night, so I took full advantage of the “Meet the new CEO” bar tab, and was a little, how do we say, jaded.

But needs must, and so I bravely ploughed into this week’s Fiano. Tasting straight from the fridge, it was crisply cold, with a slightly oily mouthfeel, quite viscous, and somewhat sweet. Remembering last week’s notes on serving temperature, I waited for the wine to thaw out a little before trying again. All the sweetness went and it became more astringent, and a touch sour. Not the worst white wine I’ve ever tasted, it was a perfectly pleasant drink, but not necessarily one I’ll rush back to either. Perhaps I need to try the modern style described above.”

Buying Guide

This pretty little white comes from the Southern Campania region in Italy. It can also be found in Australia and Sicily, but we are going to try the original. Head to the Italian white section and you can find this wine in lots of the major retailers, but, after some Googling many seem to be from Sicily. Try to get one from Campania – the area of Avellino produces the best Fiano. Sicily will do if that’s all you can find. It will be a bit more fruity and less floral than the wines from Campania.