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Week 13 – Fiano

Andy 9 Comments

Tasting Notes

Emma says: “Today was equal pleasure and pain when it comes to the 52grapes experience. Arriving home late from a work trip, we realised tonight was the only night we had to try a Fiano before our weekly newsletter deadline.

So I sit here bleary eyed, wishing I was in bed, but instead musing over a Fiano. Thankfully this wine has reminded me of what is so enjoyable about our project. Instead of buying one of the Fianos I have tasted before, I ventured into a small and beautiful Italian specialist wine shop, ā€œPassione Vinoā€ in Shoreditch, to buy a version I hadnā€™t tried before. And this Campanian Fiano is really unusual. It feels like a traditional rather than a modern version. Most of the modern styles Iā€™ve tried are crisp, fresh and floral, quite straightforward and thirst quenching with mild white peach flavours. Think of Pinot Grigio with more fragrance and richer fruit flavour.

But this version is very different to that. For a start the aroma is softer, more honeyed with gentle floral notes (almost pot pourri in style). The palate is quite waxy with orange peel, sweet peach compote flavours and a white tea savoury note. It feels like a wine that would work well with food for its extra body, texture and richness in fruit. But we arenā€™t talking bold tropical fruit, it is altogether gentle and mild. It didnā€™t blow my mind but I found it interesting enough to keep going back to in order to consider its flavour palate. I think that is honestly why these small producer styles from a small specialist shop can be a fun experience. They often offer something slightly different from the mainstream styles.

And what do I mean by traditional rather than modern for Campania? Well the modern styles can be made in a very precise technical way, avoiding any oxygen contact to keep the fragrance very fresh. Traditional styles are less protective, meaning a little bit more oxygen interacts with the grape and softens out those aromas, bringing on the honeyed character that otherwise tends to come to these wines later with age.”

Andy says: “Emma was away for a night, so I took full advantage of the “Meet the new CEO” bar tab, and was a little, how do we say, jaded.

But needs must, and so I bravely ploughed into this week’s Fiano. Tasting straight from the fridge, it was crisply cold, with a slightly oily mouthfeel, quite viscous, and somewhat sweet. Remembering last week’s notes on serving temperature, I waited for the wine to thaw out a little before trying again. All the sweetness went and it became more astringent, and a touch sour. Not the worst white wine I’ve ever tasted, it was a perfectly pleasant drink, but not necessarily one I’ll rush back to either. Perhaps I need to try the modern style described above.”

Buying Guide

This pretty little white comes from the Southern Campania region in Italy. It can also be found in Australia and Sicily, but we are going to try the original. Head to the Italian white section and you can find this wine in lots of the major retailers, but, after some Googling many seem to be from Sicily. Try to get one from Campania – the area of Avellino produces the best Fiano. Sicily will do if that’s all you can find. It will be a bit more fruity and less floral than the wines from Campania.

Week 12 – Touriga Nacional

Andy 13 Comments

Tasting Notes

We tasted: MOB – Dao Touriga, Jaen, Alfochiero, Baja 2013 Berry Bros & Rudd Ā£28.95

Emma says: “This week has certainly been a mission. In fact I’ll be surprised if anyone joins in. After suggesting that people find a Douro red which has predominantly Touriga Nacional in the blend our search of London showed this was nigh on impossible.

Most Douro reds have ā€œTinta Rorizā€ (aka Tempranillo) as the first grape listed on the label and by law the list of grapes in a blend has to list them in order of highest percentage. We did some pretty heavy Google searching and found this was the case almost everywhere. We were about to give up when I recalled a great wine friend, Abi, had bought me a lovely bottle for my birthday from another classic region in Portugal, ā€œDaoā€. Hey presto it is predominantly Touriga. So a stroke of luck and a big thank you to Abi.

On tasting I think this wine actually shows more about the region and the particular style it brings rather than Touriga. I imagine other tasters with a Douro wine will get a different experience. This is a really serious wine. The scent is very dark brooding with a slate-y mineral intensity, and some medicinal and herbal notes. On tasting it is taught with grippy but nicely fine tannin. The flavours continue to deliver a smoky pencil lead intensity that I normally find in good Bordeaux. There is also lovely dense, bright purple fruit which points to the warmer climate of Southern Europe. But this isnā€™t a bouncy, fruity, luscious sort of wine it is more on the serious side with mouth filling intensity and a complex array of flavours that appeal to those people that want a wine that lingers and brings more and more flavours as you ponder on it.

On reading about the wine it is made by three winemakers Jorge Moreira, Francisco Olazabal and Jorge Borges who are normally based in the Douro and with this joint project want to represent the true spirit of Dao with grapes grown beside Portuguese highest mountain range giving this wine that extra dose of acidity and that mineral intensity from the poor granitic soil influence, where vines bury deeply and produce wines with extra intensity. Besides Touriga this wine has other local interesting grapes in the blend, I have always particularly like Baga which is akin to Nebbiolo in its bold tannic delivery and Jaen is related to Mencia and Cabernet Franc; for those wanting geek facts.

Iā€™m really glad I tried it. Like many Portuguese wines I find they have a distinct and unique character and feel quite sad that we donā€™t see them more often in our UK stores. I think it may be that with their totally different array of grape names that are hard to pronounce so they donā€™t make an easy sell. What a shame, we need to get more spirit of adventure back into wine. Which is precisely what 52 grapes is about and is exactly what Portuguese wines need.”

Andy says: “I’ve spent most of this week worrying about two things.

Thing one – the complete lack of availability of Touriga dominant wines in major supermarkets. We appear to have sent you on a bum steer, so if you’re reading this and still looking, just get any Douro red. It will have Touriga in it. Probably.

Thing two – A pun for this week’s newsletter title. “Touriga Nacional” isn’t exactly the most pun-able grape name in the world. Aruba, Touriga, ooh I wanna take ya… you now have the Beach Boys / Kokomo in your head. Thank me later.

We decided to have this wine with dinner. I needed something to doĀ beforehand so had a glass of a new Malbec. It was a sample Emma had brought home, and was already open. Rude not to, right? It was full of lovely fruity flavour, but this isn’t Malbec week. You know when you haven’t got enough Ribena left to make a glass of juice, but you give it a go anyway and end up with a weak, pale pink, overly diluted homeopathic tribute act? That’s what it felt like when I then tried this week’s red.Ā  This Dao TourigaĀ was like drinking water in comparison to the Malbec.

But this was very much a short term opinion. I left the wine for a little time to open up and also to allow my palate to reset. The second tasting was much improved – I definitely got fruit (I couldn’t name which one though. Grape?) and a bit of smoke. Tannin wise I thought they were soft, as there was a quick light grip on the tongue that quickly disappeared, as that’s what I thought soft tannins were. Having Googled a list of wine terms, I have decided ’round’ (“A wine that has a good sense of body that is not overly tannic.”) is the best fit.

In summary, very drinkable but still haven’t found my red of choice.”

Buying Guide

UPDATE: It seems there aren’t that many Touriga led reds out there – so if you’re struggling, any Douro red will do!

Touriga is the most famous red grape of Portugal. It tends to be used in reds from the Douro region, which also makes port wines. The easiest way to find a wine made with this grape is to look for a red from Portugal made in the Douro valley. Or to look for the Portuguese red section in a retailer and check the back label for the grapes used in the blend. It is unusual to find a 100% Touriga so itā€™s very likely youā€™ll have to scour the labels and find a blend. Watirose, M&S and Aldi stock Douro reds. If all else fails a bottle of port would make an interesting option to try this week.

Week 11 – Chenin Blanc

Andy 13 Comments

Tasting Notes

We tasted:Ā Craft 3 Chenin Blanc from M&S at Ā£10 a bottle.

Emma says: “After a full on gutsy red last week this wine really is ringing the changes. The choice of a South African Chenin may be a bit controversial to those who love the versions from its birthplace the Loire. I wanted to give a nod to South Africa because I think they are producing increasingly interesting versions of Chenin in their own particular style.

Their original plantings of Chenin were mainly produced because they grew easily and held their acidity well in the warm climate. If youā€™ve tried a watery Chenin as a cheap entry level white in a pub or bar then this is probably what youā€™ve tasted. It’s also used all over the world as a blender grape that adds acidity to more fruity grape varieties like Chardonnay. But hold it there, because it can be so much more interesting and that is what I hope we are all going to taste this week. Grown at lower yields it is still that palate tingler with great acidity but it also has sparkly green apple fruit and is the ultimate crisp thirst quencher. Some producers also oak them which gives an overlap of peppery spice notes.

Onto our wine tonight. Craft 3 Chenin Blanc made by the Land of Hope winery. This is a truly bone dry style. Andy is great at spotting technical things on a wine and immediately noticed it is a bit spritz-y, which may mean they bottled with a touch of carbon dioxide. That makes it even more palate tingly. And the fruit is just like biting into a granny smith apple with a nice zesty lemon back bone. It does have some softer white melon fruit at the core that means it isnā€™t sour or sharp. And there is a classic hint of smoky white pepper that I often get in South African whites but in a very discrete way. I think fans of Chardonnay, Viognier or New Zealand Sauvignon might not get this wine. It can just seem austere and lacking in fruit oomph. But if you like crisp whites like Pinot Grigio or Gavi then this could be a nice alternative.

All that acidity makes it a fantastic wine to cut through a rich food such as a creamy pasta sauce or risotto.”

Andy says: “I was drinking this during Man Utd’s awful performance in, and subsequent exit from, the Champion’s League. I was in my lucky seat and everything – so now the blame must lie with the wine and not Mourinho’s awful tactics.

The first thing I noticed was a tingle, but that faded as the glass wore on. I do like a good Riesling, which is a high acid grape, and Chenin Blanc is too. I liked this wine, so perhaps I like high acid. It was very clean and crisp, had notes of peach and apple, was a touch ‘white wine-y’ but on the whole it was very, very drinkable. It might have just been the terrible mood I was in, but I could easily have downed it all. Just not when Man U are on, as it’s now my unlucky wine.”

Buying Guide

Chenin Blanc originates from the Loire in France, but we are opting to taste the new world region most famed for its production ā€“ South Africa. We will be looking for a unoaked or lightly oaked South African Chenin which will help us to try the grape in its most unadulturated style. To find that go to the South African white section and check the back label to see if oak is mentioned, typically the label will state if it is used in the winemaking. Ken Forrester is a great producer, widely distributed, and a good option if you spot one.

Week 10 – Corvina

Andy 15 Comments

Tasting Notes

Emma says: ā€œThis week is showing up the imperfection of our grape scheduling skills.Ā This grape in this style would have been an ideal winter warmer during last week’s “Beast from the East”. I hope you will forgive us. Although those at other sides of the world may disagree.

Corvina is the main grape used in the Valpolicella region; blended with lesser proportions of Rondinella and Molinara grapes. Whichever version you are tasting, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Ripasso or Amarone, all will have mostly Corvina grape. The differences between those wines will take a little time to explain. Valpolicella is the red wine made like most other reds, so no explanation needed there; usually bright cherry fruit, fresh and lively tasting. Then there is the local tradition of taking whole bunches of grapes and drying them slowly over a period of months so the water inside the grape evaporates a little and the grapes concentrate. Whole bunches of these dried grapes are used to create Amarone which as a result is high in sugar and produces intense and quite alcoholic wines. Ripasso is the in between version where some dried grapes are added to regular grape juice; with the result being a more intense version of the standard wine. The method of drying grapes before making wine is called Ripasso.

Onto the wine we are tasting today ā€œTorre Dā€™Orti Amaroneā€ Ā£36. Before I give you my thoughts on this wine I confess Iā€™m not a massive fan of these heavily concentrated and high alcohol reds; probably because I donā€™t have the stamina to handle them. There is also a problem with some of these reds where the process means they can get a bit oxidative and lack freshness, plus the concentrated grapes can produce heavy tannin resulting in a wine that can feel dry.

I’ve tasted this Amarone before, and I was astonished at how it converted me; and re-tasting today confirmed this. The aroma is beautifully perfumed, pruney intensity with a cherry liqueur fragrance and mint leaf notes; not at all Port-y or stewed in character. On the taste it is big but incredibly smooth and luscious, lots of black cherries, strong dark chocolate and wild herb notes. Yes, you feel the warmth which isnā€™t surprising at 16.5% ABV, but it doesnā€™t feel spirit-y or harsh. The thing that stands out is the fruit still has this vivacity and freshness which is amazing if you think the fruit has been drying so long. A wine with a high price, but certainly worth it as a winter warmer treat.ā€

Andy says: “I’ve done my fair share of stupid alcohol – shots of this and that, insanely flammable cocktails (Nuclear Daiquiri, anyone?) and ridiculously strong beers etc.

This I think is the first time I’ve tasted a wine that has made me visibly wince, and utter something along the lines of ‘oh boy’, but a little more ‘post-watershed’ if you catch my drift. The reason being it’s 16.5% – quite possibly the strongest wine I’ve ever tasted, and I wasn’t expecting it. I left it sitting for ten minutes or so before braving it again.

With expectations re-calibrated, this was a reasonably pleasant red. I’m still yet to find the grape or the style that’s for me. Knowing it was an Amarone (and therefore from dried/raisined grapes), I could definitely taste the fruit richness and intensity, with a very mild grip from the tannins. Warming and liqueur like in its texture, I’m wondering if it could be used in a cocktail as a substitute for something like Chambord. I guess I’ll never find out as it’s all gone, and at Ā£36 it’s something of an expensive experiment.

Onwards to next week and future reds – the quest continues.”

Buying Guide

Corvina is an Italian red grape but it tends to be labelled by the region of Valpolicella where it comes from; or by a specific style of wine it makes called Amarone. We are going to be trying an Amarone since this is a special style of wine that involves the grapes being left to raisin after being picked. It is so unique it seemed only right to try that. Most large retailers stock Amarone, so head for the Italian red section and look for a wine labelled with that name.

Week 9 – Picpoul Blanc

Andy 16 Comments

Tasting Notes

Emma says: “The 52 grape challenge has hit new heights this week. I sit here with my chilled glass of Picpoul but it should be a Chardonnay because Iā€™m as lonely and sad as Bridget Jones.

The aptly named ā€œStorm Emmaā€ has divided Andy and I to opposite snow bound sides of London. As a result Iā€™ve opted for a bottle from the trusted local offy. Whilst Andy is heading to his local bar with another lady. I would be offended but I know it is the nearest Picpoul in about a mile’s radius to himā€¦

So this weekā€™s test is not just about the grape but whether it is as satisfying to try a wine alone as it is in company. At first sniff this is quite a herbal Picpoul, almost Sauvignon-esque in its grassy notes but not as pungent. There is also a fresh sea air kick to the aroma that gives it a freshness that intermingles with a base of limey fruits. On the palate it is bone dry and mouthwatering with similar zesty fruits, so this is a wine that will really appeal to the dry white fan base. But what I like about Picpoul is how it also has this creamy interior which has a nice gentle herby fennel bulb note. It isnā€™t the most complicated of flavour profiles but it is totally thirst quenching. Plus if you are getting bored of Sauvignon and want an alternative I think this is a dry white that has a little bit more subtlety than a lot of modern Sauvignon styles. And in comparison to your Italian dry whites you could argue it has more character.

It is a gift for food matching to white fish or creamy sauces. Donā€™t go for powerful flavours where its flavours would get lost.

And how was my experience of drinking alone? To be very honest I like to taste a glass without distraction. I find myself drinking less and tasting more. It is truly the moment I can savour a glass. Sorry Andy!

Wine was: Camp de Rousse ā€œPicpoul de Pinetā€ 2016 Ā£11
Handy hint: there is a big shortage of Picpoul in 2017 due to rising demand for this rediscovered white and a very short harvest. So buy it while you can…”

Andy says: “As mentioned by Emma, the week’s events have conspired against us and we’ve had to taste different wines.

I don’t know what to do. We don’t collaborate on notes – that’s the basis of the website – but I realise now that seeing Emma’s initial reaction has perhaps been seeding my reviews. So here I go without her. Strap in, hold on tight, and don’t quote me on anything, as it’s likely to be factually and scientifically incorrect.

I tasted ‘Grange des Rocs, Picpoul de Pinet 2016’, the Picpoul of choice in my local bar. I found it to be fairly sour/limey, dry, and well, a little rough. I think ‘rustic’ is the term. There was a bit of a burn, and it felt more than the 12.5% on the label. I sensed a little tingle on the tongue, which initially I thought was CO2, but after a few sips more I decided it wasn’t and that the wine was ‘as flat as a pancake’.

Emma has told me that the same sensation can indicate (residual?) sugar, so my guess would be that they’ve tried to balance some acidity with extra sugar, which might explain some of the burn. This is where Emma comments and tells me how wrong I am.

 

I then did a bit of a Google, and apparently it’s a natural wine, so maybe I was right with the rustic comment, as it just wasn’t smooth. I can’t remember the exact price, but it was about Ā£21 for the bottle, so probably around the Ā£5 mark in supermarket terms. In summary, I’d be pretty sure that you could get a better Picpoul at the same price point.Ā It tasted like generic white wine, wasn’t offensive, and did what it was supposed to do.”

Buying Guide

This week weā€™re asking you to seek out the trendy new white of the moment. It comes from the South of France so head to the French white section and look for a tall thin bottle which is particular for this wine. It should stand out and have Picpoul de Pinet clearly labelled on the front.

Week 8 – Nero D’Avola

Andy 15 Comments

Tasting notes

Corte Ibla Nero Dā€™Avola Single Estate 2015 – Ā£12.50

Emma says: “Last night I was at a wine tasting. An unusual one, since I was told before I even tasted the wines I couldnā€™t buy them. They were already all bought, and too expensive for me.

I then saw the labels of these wines and it threw me even more. No words, just pictures of a semi clad ghetto-tastic lady holding a machete and sitting on a car. The winemaker was lovely, but when he came to describe his wines he spoke more about the inspiration for the labels than the wines themselves. Iā€™m saying this because iā€™m not feeling much like tasting Nero Dā€™Avola tonight. I drank a little too much of those wines….

I actually find that tasting wine whilst feeling a little ā€œoff colourā€ can be a very good test. The wine is going to have to try extra hard to impress me. Weā€™re trying the Corte Ibla Nero Dā€™Avola Single Estate 2015 which is Ā£12.50. So weā€™ve pushed the boat out a little in Nero D terms. The first sniff is impressive, it has moody dark fruits with a nice herbal tinge, quite baked and heady in aroma giving a clue to the warm Sicilian climate. I know this wine is made from old vines which produce low yields with more intense flavours, and you can already sense that. On the palate this is a serious wine, it is loaded with dark spicy plum fruit but also has a nice smoky mineral dimension that gives it far more complexity than your average pizza restaurant Nero D. Although I have said it is serious I think there is something quite easy to enjoy about Nero Dā€™Avola, it has a tutti frutti mid palate and the tannins are present but quite loose and smooth. The alcohol is warming at 13.5% but this grape holds its acidity well despite the climate conditions so it feels nicely in balance.

Iā€™m hoping this is a wine that people who typically enjoy Malbec would find a good alternative. It has the gutsy flavours and spicy richness that should mean it ticks the same boxes.

As for food matches, this is a structured red so it would be a great match for red meats or winter stews. If you go with the logic that wines go well with local cuisine then I would try it with tomato based dishes, potentially using olives and a bit of chilli. Sicily has a really interesting cuisine that blends the traditional Italian flavours with more spicy North African influences.Ā  A puttanesca sauce would be a great match for that reason.

And finally did this glass convert me back to drinking? The truth is no, Iā€™m looking forward to moving onto a glass of water. But Iā€™m sure my doctor would be relieved to hear that.”

Andy says: “Sloppy Giuseppe, Capricciosa,Ā Nero D’Avola,Ā Quattro Stagioni. To paraphrase Sesame Street, “one of these kids is doing its own thing”, and the ‘kid’ here isĀ Nero D’Avola. It’s not a pizza. Not a pizza not a pizza not a pizza. It should be, but to the best of my knowledge (aka ‘Google’) it isn’t.

Whilst on my Google pizza quest, I learned that “Nero D’Avola” is Italian for “Black D’Avola”. Nero being Italian for black, and D’Avola being Italian forĀ  D’Avola. Who knew?

I jest, of course, I always knew the Italian for “D’Avola”. (In all seriousness, Avola is a city/town in Sicily, and it’s a black grape from there. “Nero D’Avola” =Ā “Black from Avola”Ā – thanks Google!).

I was looking forward to this one, as I think I like full bodied reds, and the whole point of this 52 Grapes nonsense is to help me work that out. I still don’t quite know what ‘full bodied’ means. I would say this was definitely toward the ‘full’ end of the spectrum, but could be ‘fuller’.

Slightly leathery on the nose, and a bit of a burn after the swallow. The former (I’m told) being a characteristic of a warm climate red, and the latter being a sign of the ABV. It’s only 13.5%, but tastes more. Fruit wise, it’s at the dark end – plum, cherries, brambles etc. Andy tip: At my basic level, it’s not necessarily about tasting those specific things, it’s more of a profiling task. Is it green fruit (apple, pear, gooseberry), red fruit (strawberry, raspberry, redcurrant), or black fruit (plum, black cherry). If I get that sorted, then next would be trying to pinpoint where in each of those scales I feel the wine is.

In summary – and bearing in mind the price compared to others of a similar profile – this is a keeper.”

Buying Guide

Lovers of Malbec, Syrah or Cabernet ā€“ this one may be for you.

This week Iā€™ve chosen Nero Dā€™Avola. The honest truth is that I wanted to select a grape that could only really come from one place (and has one name) because Iā€™m getting tired of the showdown between one region and another when I choose which country to try a grape from.

Thankfully “Nero D” is the king of Sicilian red grapes, which makes it nice and easy. Unless you happen to live in France where I hear youā€™d be hard pushed to find anything more southern than the Rhone.

And if you do want one tip above and beyond ā€œhead to the red Italian section of your local shopā€, Ā I would say that ā€œVittoriaā€ region of Sicily is where the best versions come from. Also that the bargain bucket Nero Dā€™Avolas can be lovely, but if you trade up a little to Ā£10 or more then you will get a chance to taste the sophistication this grape can achieve. And the Sicilians will love you for it!

Week 7 – Pinot Gris

Andy 13 Comments

Tasting Notes

Emma says: “This was the first week I left Andy to buy the wine, and he absolutely smashes it with his choice. He turns up to my flat with Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris 2015 from Alsace. Completely without knowing this is one of my favourite Alsace producers and would have been top of my list. Maybe he was channelling early Valentine’s day vibes. Looks like he’ll be the buyer from here onwards…

Onto the wine. I remember the first time I had an Alsace Pinot Gris and this experience brought me right back to that moment. I was really blown away by a white that had that creamy soft body and richness of flavour that you might see in a grape like Chardonnay or Viognier when oaked, but with far more subtlety. On this wine I got the enticing aromas of pear compote, with hints of acacia honey, tangerine peel and mild floral notes. Similarly the palate was soft orchard fruits, kumquat, white pepper. It is textured and round in mouthfeel, but with a nice mineral bite that lifts the honeyed fruit. Gentle but pure and long on the finish.

The secret of Alsace whites is that they don’t oak the wine in small barrels, instead (if they use oak at all) they use large old oak vats. The process doesn’t add flavour like vanilla or coconut (Errrm? I tasted coconut. – Andy) that smaller barrels would give. Instead it just gives the wine a bit of gentle oxygen influence that brings out those more orange peel, soft fruit flavours and honeyed influence. Plus they tend to leave a bit of residual sugar which adds to that perception of fruitiness. These are whites that can age amazingly at the high quality end.

ZindĀ Humbrecht is one of the most famous producers. Particularly because it is biodynamic. That means they manage the vineyards and winemaking in harmony with the lunar cycles. Sounds like hocus pocus? I would say so too but some of the finest wines in the world are made in this way. I can bore you for longer than that on that subject but you’d have to #askEmma. In short biodynamic wines don’t necessarily mean higher quality, but they certainly mean the producer has taken care to respect nature in the way they make their wines.”

Andy says: “It was my job to purchase the wine this week. Armed with my buying guide, I popped into a ‘Little Waitrose’. All they had was a fridge full of Pinot Grigio. Undefeated, I walked a few metres up the road to the local independent wine emporium. “Nailed on”, I thought.

It’s one of those places that you can’t quite fathom – I’ve rarely seen anyone in there but somehow they continue to trade.

“Hello”, I said cheerily. “I’m looking for a Pinot Gris.”

“Pinot…” – a slight pause – “Grrrreeees?”. A torrent of rolling Rs and a modicum of incredulity. You could almost hear him thinking “He means Grigio, the idiot”.

“Yes, Pinot Gris.”

“Oh. Well we don’t have any of that”. He moves from behind the counter, “B..”

Before I could be up-sold (down-sold?) a Pinot Grigio, I bid a cheery “kthxbye” and was off.

NextĀ stop and another walk to the local Oddbins.

“Hello”, I said cheerily. “I’m looking for a Pinot Gris.”

“Ah we only have one, and it’s the last bottle. Bottom shelf, on the left.”

“Perfect, thanks!”.

And that’s how I ended up with a bottle ofĀ Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris 2015, from Alsace. I’d like to pretend I knew what I was doing, but no, it was the only bottle within a one mile radius of the flat.

And so to the wine. I got a hint of coconut, it was very dry (I think), and reminded me of Riesling. I like Riesling, and therefore I liked this.”

Buying Guide

Here we go again. Another grape with two divergent versions, Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris. The former tends to be harvested early and made in a crisp, dry style with lighter flavours; its homeland is the Veneto in Northern Italy. The latter is the same grape but tends to be picked at full ripeness, has richer body and fruit flavour; original homeland Alsace in France.

It’s quite an easy decision. I imagine youā€™ve all guzzled a fair few bottles of light and thirst quenching ItalianĀ PinotĀ Grigio in your time. Ā My sisterā€™s friend once dubbed it ā€œlady petrolā€.Ā  Yep, that guy was an obnoxious home countiesĀ pint of ale and green welliesĀ type but we all know what he means.Ā Pinot Grigio can be that drink that is quaffable for being empty of flavour and inoffensive. Iā€™m not writing it off, there are some fantastic versions Iā€™ve had from the top producers in Northern Italy, that are lean, mineral with a peppery richness and delicate orchard fruit flavours. But I think we can get more interesting than that.

We’re going to opt for Pinot Gris this week. If your default after work white is Pinot Grigio, then this is the week we might just help you break that habit. Those of you that have had your fill of Grigio, we hope we can bring you back.

I have two regions I most like that produceĀ PinotĀ Gris; Alsace (France) or Oregon (USA). My first choice for this week is going to be Alsace, so look for the French section of the white wine aisle and keep an eye out forĀ PinotĀ Gris. But I know that we are mostly buying from major supermarkets and this is a lesser found style. If you canā€™t get that, OregonĀ PinotĀ Gris is a good second best. Lastly, head to the New Zealand section.

Week 6 – Grenache / Garnacha

Andy 10 Comments

Tasting Notes

Emma says: “I happen to know two fantastic winemakers who specialise in Garnacha in Spain. Fernando Mora and Norrel Robertson. Fernando is a ‘garagiste’ winemaker, the term us wine folks use for someone who makes wine in the equivalent of their back yard. His first wine was made in his bath, honestly it was. Given his small quantity production I was lucky to get hold of a bottle to review. We’re told you are able get one if you are interested – just contact us and weā€™ll tell you how.

Norrel is a Scotsman who moved to the remote Spanish region Calatayud, and is championing their old vine Garnacha. His wines are a little easier to track down: El Puno at Oddbins or Papa Luna at Majestic.

On to the grape in question! There is something unusual about the aroma of Grenache/Garnacha that I donā€™t quite get. Very Tutti Frutti, which is nice, but there is also an unusual sweet and sour note, with a slightly earthy character. Something I find a bit distracting and potentially Iā€™m just over sensitive to it, because fellow tasters donā€™t say that as much as me. Plus because it can be a hot climate grape the perfume can be a bit high toned i.e. varnishy. So my previous experience is that Iā€™m a lover of the taste of Garnacha rather than the smell. If I focus too much on the smell I donā€™t like it!

And on to the wine we are tasting today ā€œSupersonicoā€ by Fernando. This wine has some of that aroma character but thankfully in a gentle way and nice decent note of bright jammy plums – yum. The spicy character comes through in that way a mulled wine gives you a first hit of warming cloves and pepper. Good start.

On the taste this wine really come into its own. It has the sweet supple candied red fruits I expect, very smooth and dense in flavour. There is a lovely texture too; fine but mouth filling. The grape itself has relatively low tannin, so this means the old vine fruitĀ  has delivered this extra layer of concentration. It has warming alcohol but it works well with the layers of spice which are a touch medicinal and liquorice sweet in taste. I love the depth of this wine it keeps giving new flavours, raspberry, cherry, plum, then a bit of root beer, prune, candied peel, star anise, all sorts of luscious sweet and spice flavours. The fruit is very much at the front of its flavour which to me shows the grape have that intensity and that the oak is gentle and not overwhelming.

And I was happy that it was only after drinking the wine I noticed it said ā€œnaturalā€ on the label. Checking Fernandoā€™s website I can see it means heā€™s limited the amount of sulphur he uses to make the wine. This is ā€œbang on trendā€ and a bit of a controversial topic right now. Sulphur is a preservative and has a long tradition in winemaking. But it isnā€™t great for the health so many ā€œnaturalā€ winemakers have tried stopping using it entirely. I like Fernandoā€™s approach because the wine still tastes squeaky clean. If youā€™ve ever had the joy of tasting a ā€œbadā€ natural wine which can have all sort of off flavours youā€™ll know what I meanā€¦”

Andy says: “Confession time. Each week, we’ve written our notes independently before comparing. This week however, I cheated. I read Emma’s first.”

Nothing hammers home more how little I know or can taste. She’s throwing around terms like ‘prune’, ‘root beer’ and ‘star anise’. Sometimes I think she has access to some sort of wine tasting thesaurus, looks up ‘red wine’, and then chooses three or four synonyms just to mess with me. Red wine, well it’s probably on page one, white wine being alphabetically on page two. How easy is that?

So what can I taste? The only thing I feel confident about is ‘tannin’, in that they’re there, and are soft, gentle and I guess ’round’, as that’s what is usually said.

Andy tip time: You know that feeling when you drink red wine, and your tongue feels like it puckers and your cheeks or teeth go dry? That’s tannin. The firmer the ‘pucker’, the more tannin present.

I think I also get acidity, as my cheeks water heavily after drinking. Nose wise, it’s a bit old leather. I hate myself for typing that, but it’s definitely not ‘new leather’. A hint of VA (volatile acidity), and a wisp of farmyard, neither being unwelcome.

Buying Guide

Whoever voted for Grenache – you pesky people! I knew it would be difficult to decide on which Grenache we taste, and was hoping to leave it until later this year.

Why? Well Grenache is mostly used in blends. When we set out on the 52 grape challenge we said we wanted each week to taste a wine that best expressed the grape it was made from. Sticking with that idea, Spain and Australia are places that make 100% Grenache wines. We’re plumping for Spain, so look for Spanish Old Vine Garnacha from either Calatayud or Carinena regions.

These styles will be pretty similar to the Tempranillo and Barossa Shiraz in recent weeks, so if you do fancy a blend, look for aĀ French Rhone blend ā€“ specifically the wines CĆ“tes de Rhone, Gigondas or Vacqueras; which are all from the Rhone area. Look for a recent vintage too.

So go to your local wine shop, head to the Spanish or French red section, and find a wine with those names on the label. If you go French, check the back label in the hope it mentions Grenache is in the blend. If they write Grenache first in the list grapes it means it’s the predominant grape ā€“ which is perfect.

Alternatively ask your friendly wine merchant to help!

Week 5 – Zinfandel / Primitivo

Andy 13 Comments

Tasting notes

Emma says: “Iā€™m intrigued to see how this week goes, because on a personal note I donā€™t ever remember really enjoying Zinfandel. It is that sort of lusty bold red that I really donā€™t get.

A bit of a problem child as a grape because it needs a really hot climate to get ripe and then ripens unevenly, so you can get sweet raisin grapes and green un ripe ones in the same bunch. For me that means it can be jammy and sort of green tasting at the same time.Ā  Not a great combination. Then it easily reaches high alcohol, and since Iā€™m on the petite side that extra % or two of alcohol can make all the difference the day after.

But that is the pleasure of this journey. Bring it on. Letā€™s find a Zinfandel I love. So we choose a slightly pricey one, Edmeades from Mendocino County in California. On the first sniff it is definitely Zin, slightly spirit-y in fragrance (=alcohol) with very ripe raspberry and cherry fruit but actually there is a nice perfume to it and it feels surprisingly fresh rather than pruney. Good start. To taste it silky textured and smooth with more of that candied cherry and luscious strawberry fruit, it is balancing on a fine thread to being jammy, but hanging in there well. Iā€™m feeling that 15% alcohol but not it isnā€™t vicious and there is a nice gentle cocoa powder twist from oak.

So I think the learning for me is that if I drink Zinfandel it is going to have to be the pricey stuff. Before now Iā€™ve tended to drink Lodi region Zinfandel which is the biggest commercial area for this grape and those wines have been richer and heavier without the finesse of this one weā€™ve tried. Mendocino area benefits from cooling coastal breezes which is perhaps the secret of its finesse; Russian river Zins share that character. The other thing to look out for on the label if you do like Zin is ā€œold vineā€. This was one of the original planted grapes of California but a lot was pulled up in favour of more famous red grapes. Those old vines have far better balance in the way they produce fruit and so tend to produce the best and most complex styles of Zin.

Oh and if you are trying Primitivo instead of Zin, that is the style I typically favour. It has that pruney intensity but I like more earthy, savoury profile that mingles into the fruit and gives it a different dimension. So I hope you find that difference if you are going Italian this week.”

Andy says: “Let’s get one thing straight: My wine vocabulary is limited. I can sort of recognise tastes and smells, but then struggle to put a name to them. I guess that’s what happens when your diet consists mainly of crisps, chips and pizza.

But, one of the reasons for doing 52 grapes is to help me work out what people mean when they say they can taste leather, petrol, arsenic, or some other thing that would kill you if you actually knew what it tasted like. You know, like Tide pods.
So the wine. On the nose, it’s a bit shoe polish, high notes, and if you take a big old sniff it hits you right between the eyes. Tasting again a day later, that’s softened a bit. It’s 15%, so I’m assuming it’s the alcohol. Watch this space for Emma telling me why it’s not that.
Taste wise, the label says Graham Crackers (no idea, it’s something American), cherry (yep, ok, I’ll give you that), blackberry (never knowingly had one – more childhood issues), and dark chocolate (maybe). For me, mild tannins (only a slight tongue grip), and quite dry. Did I like it? Yes – but I’d like to try it at a lower ABV.”

Buying Guide

This buying guide is the trickiest so far.

Zinfandel and Primitivo are genetically the same grape. The former is mostly found in California producing ripe fruity styles that are heady and full bodied. The latters is a classic from Italy, normally in the southern Puglia region where the intense sun produces rich, fruity and concentrated styles. The thing is the results are dramatically different. For me the Zins are the more straightforward – fruity, even jammy styles. The Primitivo is more classic in the mix of rich raisiny fruit and leathery, savoury undertones. They are equal in quality, so Iā€™m struggling to decide which one we should taste.

Since Iā€™ve tasted a lot of Primitivo recently through work, I’m going to plump for a Californian Zinfandel. But I really am tempted to buy one of each, although Iā€™ve been promising Andy that Iā€™ll stop doing thatā€¦

Please note – this is not a White Zinfandel, you’re looking for a red wine.Ā White Zinfandel is the pink version and is basically the Coca Cola of the wine world. It doesnā€™t really taste of the base grape because the vines used have massive yields, producing watery flavoured grapes. To be pink it has very short contact with the skin, and that’s where most of the flavour sits. Then to finish it off they chuck a load of sugar at it before bottling. Iā€™m not trying to trash talk White Zinfandel, many people love it, but it really has little to do with the grape, and our mission here is to try to taste the best example of the basic grape flavour.

Head to the red wine section where Californian or American wines are located. Then look for a Zinfandel which is normally marked clearly on the front label. And remember – it’s a red wine!

Week 4 – Riesling

Andy 26 Comments

Tasting Notes

Emma says: “Iā€™m intrigued to see how this week goes. Riesling has got such a bad name for itself and in my mind is due for a reinvention. Maybe our project can, in a small way, nudge this lovely grape back in the right direction?

Iā€™ve again risked the wrath of Andy, bringing home two Rieslings to try. I was in Austria last week for work and was reminded by just how amazing their dry Rieslings are. So it seemed only right to smuggle back a bottle of Brundlmayer Riesling to try alongside the Australian Riesling weā€™d put in our buying guide. At least I then I have two chances to make Andy love this grape.

Iā€™ll start with my thoughts on the Brundlmayer Austrian Riesling. It was their ā€œRied Heiligensteinā€ vineyard which is a special site in the Kamptal area. This tends to mean the wine has more intensity and specific expression. For me it beautifully expresses the lime blossom youthful aroma of a good Riesling. Then on the palate it has that nervy acidity that makes it brilliantly refreshing, lots of lime zest, very bright but with a fresh mineral core that balances the fruit richness and makes it feel as lean as a good Chablis. And the good news is that almost all Austrian Rieslings are dry, so you can make it your ā€œgo-toā€ European region for good dry Riesling.

Then onto the Pike Family Riesling from Clare Valley in Australia. On tasting this is off dry, so not the exact match to my desired example of a bone dry new world Riesling. However that sweetness is really nicely in balance and doesnā€™t feel noticeable. Its aroma is more of a mellow lime, with tropical pineapple notes that definitely reflects the difference between new and old world styles. Pleasingly there is a hint of petrol that is an early sign of how it will age. And a bit of a savoury green olive tang which I often find in good Oz Rieslings. So a wine with real depth of flavour and richness.

We had this with a sort of lazy tapas style dinner to go with the Rieslings. Homemade guacamole, gouda cheese, olives and a couscous salad (that was mostly eaten by me not Andy). I think that was a perfect array of food matches for Riesling. The acidity cut really well through the cheese and the lime flavours matched really well to the Guac. But if we were being more sophisticated I think a Thai Curry would have been perfect.”

Andy says: “I like Riesling. One of the first wines Emma forced me to taste was a Chilean Riesling. It was clean, crisp, sharp, and an utter joy to drink. This was also the time that I learnt that Riesling is a cliched, underrated, darling of the wine world. “It maintains high acidity whatever the climate, so they’re always zesty and fresh” – wheel that phrase out in wine company and score wine points. (And of course don’t forget the Viognier tastes like Violet tip from Week 2).

On to the wines. The Brundlmayer was bone dry, sour (in a good way), and tasted like Rose’s lime cordial. I mean, not exactly like that, but if you were tasting this and someone was like “Lime cordial”, you’d be like, “Yeah, I get you man”.

Clare Valley – definitely sweeter and with a hint of CO2, given away by a slight but detectable tongue tingle. Aromas of green fruit – predominantly lime (expected) and apple.Ā 

I’m not entirely sure which was my favourite. I think we had the Clare Valley a little too warm (I like my (alcoholic) drinks cold. Except of course for hot toddies, the clue is in the name, but not excepting mulled wine. That’s just some December marketing gimmick to get rid of shit red wine. If you liked it that much you’d drink it in February too, wouldn’t you? Ever seen mulled wine in a bar in February? No.)

So in conclusion, I like both. Brundlmayer probably for a warm summer day picnic (I mean beer garden, but Emma’s reading this). Clare Valley, maybe a bit more every day, as it’s cheaper.”

Buying Guidelines

Many friends have raised an eyebrow in a mixture of shock and disgust when I suggest they try a glass of Riesling. Yet for wine geeks this is often considered among the king of grape varieties. My challenge this week is to try to gain some converts.

I suspect many people have been turned off Riesling by tasting relatively cheap off dry German wines. This isnā€™t to say German Rieslings are not good, they can be incredible. For this reason Iā€™m suggesting we try a new world dry style. For me these tend to have a more ready appeal to the modern palate.

As a first choice, I recommend finding an Australian Riesling from Clare or Eden Valley ā€“ the best areas for creating wines with that beautiful rich lime zest character and elegant floral aromas. Alternative hot spots for dry Riesling are South Africa, Chile or New Zealand, but beware some of them do leave a pesky bit of residual sweetness. Another tip is to venture into your local small wine shop this week and simply ask for a nice ā€œdry Rieslingā€.

If you want a bit more depth of information about Riesling do check out the grape page which gives you some hints on how to find a German Riesling that may be a drier style too.